Voices of Ebey's Reserve

A Look into the History of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve

Overview

Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve is nestled in the center of Whidbey Island in Washington State. The 17,572 acre reserve is home to over 400 nationally registered historic properties dating from the start of the Territorial Period (1850s) to pre-World War II (1940s).  

In the 1970s local citizens in Coupeville, WA, came together to protect the historic nature of the area and to halt a slated housing development within Ebey's Prairie. As a united front, the citizens lobbied Congress to support their cause. In 1978 Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve was established, creating a partnership between the governing bodies of the Town of Coupeville, Island County, National Park Service, and Washington State Parks.  

According to foundational documents the reserve is

“hereby established... in order to preserve and protect a rural community which provides an unbroken historical record from 19th century exploration and settlement in Puget Sound to the present time..." 

P.L. 95-625, National Parks and Recreation Act of 1978.

This unique organization ensures that the pastoral way of life is protected and allows visitors a chance to admire farming structures from the late-19th and early-20th centuries.

Powered by Esri

Unbroken Historical Record

Ebey's Landing lies in Washington’s Puget Lowland physiographic province, a large, low-lying region between the Cascade Range and the Olympic Mountains. The area was shaped by advancing continental glaciers during the Pleistocene Ice Ages (dating from 2.6 million years ago to 11,700 years ago). During this period, unconsolidated layers of silt, gravel, and clay formed within the prairies creating ideal pastoral land for human settlements.

The lands within Ebey's Reserve have been occupied and cultivated by various groups of people for 10,000 years. The earliest evidence of settlement found were mammoth bones with butcher marks, suggesting that hunter/gatherer groups were tracking the fauna on the island. Situated in the Salish Sea, Central Whidbey was the homeland of the Lower Skagit People and was occupied by other tribes, such as the Snohomish, Kikiallus, and Klallam, for more than 500 years (1300-1850 C.E).

Central Whidbey was favorable because of its temperate climate and access to food, fresh water, and to a calm protective cove.

The nutrient rich soil provided plentiful agricultural production and the indigenous peoples grew blue camas, bracken ferns, salal, and nettles. They also supplemented their diet with a seasonal supply of game and fish, particularly salmon. The Lower Skagit practiced many different farming techniques to increase crop production, including field burning, transplanting, and mulching for soil fertility. Much of cultivated crops, such as the ferns and nettles, were not abundant within the prairies. These agricultural practices altered the environment and transformed the prairies into crop producing lands.

The Lower Skagit People also raised small wooly dogs whose fur was sheared and spun to make blankets and mats.    

The livelihood of the Lower Skagit People focused on water transportation. Known as the “Canoe People” of the Salish Sea, the Lower Skagit used cedar dugout canoes to navigate the waterways. 

1895 Longhouse on Monroe's Landing, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Located on the shores of Penn Cove, the Lower Skagit People occupied nine multifamily villages, consisting of plank longhouses.

Enable Map Scroll to take a closer look at the resources and villages.

čobaʔálšǰd, Snakelum Point, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

čobaʔálšǰd, a village once located at Snakelum Point, is considered to be the site in which the Creator first placed the ancestors of the Lower Skagit People and thus the first village inhabited by those with “Pure Skagit” lineage.

Euro-American settlers journeying westward along the Columbia River were enticed to the island by the promising seaport and farmland. The white settlers displaced the indigenous populations, dividing the island into 57 different Land Donation Claims in the mid-19th c. 

“Do not touch the magic stick to the white man’s paper! We do not know what the white man has written on that paper! Let him sign his own paper, that is his paper, not ours.”

Squssum, Snoqualmie Leader, witness to the Point Elliot Treaty signing.

In 1855, Washington's first Territorial Governor, Isaac Stevens, required indigenous peoples to surrender their land to white settlers in exchange for money, tools, food, and education.   The treaty connected to Central Whidbey is known as the Point Elliot Treaty and was signed on January 22, 1855, at Point Elliott, Mukilteo. Believing that these treaties provided the best opportunities for their people's survival, Tribal leaders consented. Indian Reservations were created and indigenous populations were separated from their homeland. The Point Elliott Treaty established the Swinomish Reservation, located on Fidalgo Island in Western Washington, for the Lower Skagit, Samish, Kikiallus, and Swinomish Tribes.

Aleck Kettle, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

As the villages around Penn Cove were vacated, the structures were burned or fell into disrepair. Aleck Kettle and his family were the last of the Lower Skagit People in Central Whidbey Island. Aleck was a member of the Duwamish Tribe but was raised in Penn Cove. He married Teloleta “Susie” Slapoose, who was a member of the Lower Skagit and from a highly respected family. The Kettle family lived in Coupeville until Aleck's death in 1947. They are the only known Lower Skagit buried in marked graves in Coupeville's Sunnyside Cemetery. Other indigenous graves within the area were destroyed or forgotten. 

Land Donation Claims

As white settlers moved westward, they were attracted to areas that could be cultivated for agricultural purposes. Often, these lands were already settled by indigenous populations. Western migration was steered by the philosophy of Manifest Destiny which implied that land was free to claim.

In 1850 the Federal Government established the Donation Land Claim Act which stipulated that a man could claim land for free in the Oregon and Washington Territory provided that he settle on the land between 1850 and 1853, cultivate it for four consecutive years, and live on site. Additional land could be claimed by married women under their own name. Land Claims recorded during this period are known as First Class Claims.

Although the Act was extended in 1853, the land was no longer free for the taking. Known as Second Class Claims, settlers could stake up to 320 acres of land at $1.25 per acre between 1853-1855 and the four year residential requirement was reduced to two years. Additionally, single men had to be 21 years or older to claim land. 

Claims were usually filed at the Land Office three months after settlement or after the first survey. After a year, proof of cultivation and residence along with two affidavits of disinterested parties were presented to the Land Office. After four years, property owners would present their proof again and receive their certification from the Surveyor-General. These certifications were then sent by the owner to the General Land Office and a patent was issued. In 1851 First Class Claims on Whidbey Island were filed with Thurston County directly south of the island. By 1853 Second Class Claims were filed in the newly created Island County, in which Whidbey is located. 

Of the 57 Land Claims on the island, 29 were filed and recognized within Central Whidbey. Almost all of the Claims were filed by men. Widow Rebecca Maddox, was the only recognized single women to hold 320 acres in her own right.  

Enable Map Scroll to take a closer look at the Land Donation Claims and the Historic Buildings created between 1850-1889.

Colonel Isaac Ebey, the namesake of the landing, traveled from Adair County, Missouri west to California, and eventually made his way to Puget Sound by a boat in 1850. By October of that same year he settled on 320 acres of suitable farmland in Central Whidbey. He claimed the area just three weeks after the Land Donation Claim Act was passed. In 1851 Isaac arranged for his wife and children to travel along the Oregon Trail to join him. His wife, Rebecca, claimed an additional 320 acres.

Women of Ebey's Landing

Indigenous and white women played an active role in the life and development of the Euro-American settlement within Ebey's Landing.  

Walilita Slapoose, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Walalita “Squnity” Slapoose was born in a village near Coupeville in the early 1830s. Despite being nearly blind, she was renowned for her weaving skills and sold baskets, bags, and other textiles to the white settlers. Traditionally, thread was twisted from duck downs, cedar bark, and wooly dog hair. The threads were dyed with natural pigments derived from Oregon grape, sea cactus, hemlock, and elder and wild currents. In the early 19th. c. sheep were introduced to the island and the production of textiles shifted away from traditional thread to favor sheep wool.

Teloleta "Susie" Kettle (1861-1938), Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Walalita's daughter, Teloleta “Susie” Kettle, continued her mother's artistic craft. Teloleta and her husband, Aleck Kettle, partnered with Maud Fullington, and founded the Skagit Indian Tribal Trading Post in the early 20th c. Here Teloleta and other Lower Skagit women used Maud's four harness colonial style loom to produce clothing, traditional indigenous crafts, and bags. In 1939, First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt received an Admiralty Head Knitting Bag, which was made at the Skagit Indian Tribal Trading Post.

According to Louisa Fowler Sinclair (1862-1995), she was the first child born to a white parent in Mukilteo, Snohomish County, in the Washington Territories. She was the daughter of Jacob D. Fowler, from New York, and De-Dowble-Sa "Mary" Warren Fowler, a member of the Lower Skagit. De-Dowble-Sa's father was a tribal leader and a signer of the 1855 Point Elliot Treaty. De-Dowble-Sa met and worked for Jacob in the local tavern on Ebey's Landing. Once they moved to Mukilteo in 1860, she was recognized as the Founding Mother of Mukilteo. 

Although the women above led relatively prosperous lives, there are many other indigenous women who were exploited by white settlers, married and later abandoned. 

Life for settlers in Central Whidbey was very dependent on wives and mothers.

Women were responsible for keeping the home, producing hand-stitched clothing for all family members, providing education to children, transforming a few resources into nutritious meals, and helping their husband’s manage their property and businesses.

Frances Alexander, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Frances Alexander Fay, widow of John Alexander, helped manage her husband's store and owned and operated a boarding house, fondly known around Puget Sound as Mother Fay's Hotel, near the Town of Coupeville. The establishment opened its doors in 1870 and was known for its filling meals. After John's death, Frances controlled the Alexander Donation Land and sold the southernmost 160 acres to Bathalina Harmon in 1859. In turn, Bathalina managed her family estates and deeded the acquired 160 acres to W. B. Sinclair in May 1860. The land was returned to Bathalina in October, 1860.

There were also many ‘firsts’ on Whidbey Island that women were directly involved in. 

Keturah Coupe Gillespie, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

According to a family recollection written in 1934 by Flo Cranney Lovejoy – granddaughter of Captain Thomas Coupe whose Donation Land Claim in Penn Cove encompasses part of the Town of Coupeville – Flo's aunt, Keturah Coupe Gillespie, was the second white child born on Whidbey Island and had the "greatest pleasure" of driving the second automobile (a Ford) on the island. Flo’s grandmother, Marie White, was also the first woman to own a sewing machine (a Wheeler and Wilson) on Whidbey.

Flora Engle, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Flora Pearson Engle, born in Salmon Falls N.H. in 1850, traveled to Whidbey Island with her family in 1866. She was very adventurous; having procured a pony from a neighbor, she rode from house to house on the island to give music lessons. Flora was very active in the community; she was elected Recording Secretary of the Good Temple Lodge, she helped her father as the Assistant Keeper of the Admiralty Head Lighthouse for 11 years, and she was the first organist for the first church, Methodist Episcopal, established on Whidbey. She was also a charter member for both the Woman's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) and the First Congressional Church, where she was the organist and recording secretary as well.

During the Territorial Period (1850-1889), settler women wanted individualization and liberation. The WCTU offered this to the inhabitants of Central Whidbey. Many women signed the WCTU foundational document with their given names, suggesting their desire for their own autonomy and power beyond their husbands.

WCTU, 1908, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Between 1885-1888 the WCTU rented a small room in a county building in Coupeville and held meetings there regarding the advancement of Women's Suffrage and Prohibition movements. During these years settler women enjoyed more liberties. For example, in 1885 a list of grand jurors, drawn by the County Commissioners, included women for the first time. The WCTU was relatively successful petitioning for a special election in 1886 regarding the distribution and sale of alcohol. Although the records of the election results no longer exist, those who had acquired a liquor license a year prior were refunded their license fee.

Until 1888 those petitioning for liquor licenses in central Whidbey were denied. But in August 1888 the Washington Territorial Supreme Court ruled Women's Suffrage as unconstitutional. This ruling affected the temperance movements on the island and liquor licenses began to be issued again. In 1889 the WCTU was denied renewal of their reading room within the county building.   

The Washington Woman Suffrage Movement made headway during the Washington Territorial Period. Throughout the 1870s and 1880s progress was made for more female autonomy. In November 1871 a Women's Suffrage Convention was held in Olympia, Thurston County. Prominent Suffragettes within the territory and nationally came together to discussed political, economic, and social issues of the time. Women gained the right to vote on school board elections and married women’s property rights were expanded. In 1883 the Washington Territorial Legislature passed Women's Suffrage.

But progress on this front faltered. The 1883 voting law was invalidated twice by the Territorial Supreme Court. The first time in 1886 citing an improper enacting clause and the second time in 1888.

Suffragettes did not give up. There were attempts in 1889 to enshroud Women’s Suffrage in the Washington Constitution as the Washington Territory petitioned to become a state, but it wasn’t until 1910 when the State Constitution was amended to allow Washington Women the right to vote.             

Women, indigenous and white, were very active socially, politically, and economically within the rural farming community in Central Whidbey.

Work Cited

"A Particular friend, Penn's Cove:" History of the Settles, Claims, and Buildings of Central Whidbey Island by Jimmie Jean Cook (1973).

Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve Visitor Guide, The Trust Board of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve.

How Coupeville Grew: A Short History of Town Development, Prepared by Mimi Sheridan, AICP with McConnell/Burke, Inc, A joint Project of the Town of Coupeville, Trust Board of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve and the National Park Service (1998).

Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives:

  • Coupe Family History written in 1934 by Flo Cranney Lovejoy.
  • Flora Person Engle Biography and Accounts of Early Settler Life on Whidbey Island.
  • Native American-Indians of W.I. -Indian Families- RG-16BZ.
  • Organizations - League of Women Voters- Communication “Here Come the Suffragists: the Role of the Mercer Girls in the Washington Woman suffrage Movement” By Shanna Stevenson WHC Coordinator. 
  • Recollections of Early Days on Whidbey Island by Flora Augusta Pearson Engle, Island County Historical Society. 

"Louisa Fowler Sinclair ~ Memories of a Pioneer Childhood," Snohomish County Womens Lagacy Project, Womens stories ~ Womens lives,  https://www.snohomishwomenslegacy.org/2020/03/19/louisa-fowler-sinclair-memories-of-a-pioneer-childhood/  

NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, Washington,  https://www.nps.gov/articles/nps-geodiversity-atlas-ebey-s-landing-national-historical-reserve-washington.htm 

Oral History Records of Trust Board of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve.

Acknowledgments and Thanks 

Traevis Field, Senior Archeologist, Harris Environmental Group Inc.

Josh Pitts, Historic Preservationist, Trust Board of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve. 

Swinomish Indian Tribal Community.

Slade Summer Fellowship, Art Department, Wellesley College.  

1895 Longhouse on Monroe's Landing, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

čobaʔálšǰd, Snakelum Point, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Aleck Kettle, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Walilita Slapoose, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Teloleta "Susie" Kettle (1861-1938), Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Frances Alexander, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Keturah Coupe Gillespie, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

Flora Engle, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.

WCTU, 1908, Island County Historical Society, Janet Enzmann Archives.