James Bay - Emily Carr Heritage Tour
This tour of James Bay includes many of the buildings and streets where writer and artist Emily Carr lived and worked.
The fertile flat peninsula across the harbour from Fort Victoria is the neighbourhood we now know as James Bay. When the Europeans arrived, seasonal camps belonging to the ancestors of the Songhees First Nation dotted the cliffs, and a burial ground dominated Laurel Point. Sir James Douglas had established the Fort in 1843, and he set aside much of the peninsula for Beckley Farm, to supply Hudson’s Bay Company personnel. (The home farm stood near the intersection of Menzies & Simcoe.) Douglas built himself a fine home in 1852 on the north shore, facing the fort (now site of the Royal BC Museum). Later, Queen Victoria appointed Douglas as Governor of Vancouver Island, then of British Columbia. Douglas Street and the original James Bay were named for him. His son-in-law, Dr. J.S. Helmcken, the colony’s first doctor, built next door the same year, and his home, Arbutus Lodge, survives on its original site, beside the museum, the oldest surviving building in the city. After construction of the first legislative buildings for the Colony of Vancouver Island in 1858-60, and the first James Bay Bridge in 1859 (now the Causeway), the surrounding area became desirable residential property for Victoria’s social and political elite, who built substantial homes nearby.Woodlands, built in 1861, (140 Government) is the oldest surviving residence still in use in James Bay, but many other villas have succumbed to development. Several of the Carr family homes have survived. During the 1880s and ’90s, James Bay’s west end became an important industrial area, with a flour mill, grain elevator, shipyard, furniture factory, biscuit factory, woollen mill and fish-processing plant. This prompted further modest residential construction. The increased population led to building the substantial South Park School in 1894 and the Beacon Hill School (now residences) in 1914. The popularity of the area was cemented by the opening of the vast new Legislature in 1898 and the reclamation of the original James Bay for the Empress Hotel in 1901. The “Outer Wharves” at the tip of the peninsula (now cruise-ship docks) and completion of the huge Ogden Point Breakwater (1917), to encourage shipping, also spurred home-building. Grand homes, like 228 Douglas St, continued to be built until the First World War. Whole streets of modest workers’ cottages were also added during World War II, to accommodate busy shipyards. Redevelopment and modernization in the 1950s-70s destroyed many historic structures. Community activism in the 1970s persuaded municipal government to restrict the tide of highrises and to preserve some of James Bay’s heritage buildings. But the current building boom is once again taking its toll on James Bay’s beautiful old homes and streetscapes.
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1
601 Superior St
1878 architect John Teague, many alterations. Owners Dennis & Martha Harris, daughter of Sir James & Lady Amelia Douglas.
2
563 Superior St
1926-28 King's/Queen’s Printer, Art Deco style, architect L.W. Hargreaves for BC Government.
3
507 Government St
Left side was built in the 1890s, right side in 1911, architect Wm Ridgway Wilson, Italianate style, heritage colour scheme. Moved in 1996 from Michigan St, now seniors’ home.
4
514 Government St
1885 mirror-image of 506 Government. Italianate, by architect Samuel Cyrus Burris. Built for Francis (Robson) & Joseph Hunter. Note brackets, bay windows. Now owned by BC Government and used for offices. BC Building Corp. received a 2003 Hallmark Award for the restoration.
5
506 Government St
1885 mirror-image of 514 Government. Italianate by architect Samuel Cyrus Burris. Built for Susan & John Robson, BC Premier 1889-92. Note brackets, bay windows. Now owned by BC Government and used for offices. BC Buildings Corp. received a 2003 Hallmark Award for the restoration.
6
501 Government St
1915 Bird Cages Confectionery. First owners were Kleanthes “Pete” & Orsa Metro. They lived in the attached house. The corner store has had many managers and owners.
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432-34 Government St
1912 side-gabled Craftsman Bungalow with a full-width verandah.
From the 1860s, the 400-block Government was the centre of Naylor-McConnell farm. North of this block was Bird Cage Walk, south was Carr St. (after Richard Carr, 207 Government) When the street was extended in 1907, all sections became Government St.
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433, 429, 427 Government St
Originally a row of four vernacular 1880s houses (431 Government was demolished in 1979) facing Young St. In 1908 they were given Government St addresses.
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424 Government St
1934. By designer/builder James Fairall for widowed Emma Naylor as an investment property, this lot still owned by family after almost 150 years. Large modern addition on roof.
10
601 Toronto St
1891. Queen Anne-style cottage. First owners were Margaret & William Garnham. House has been raised.
Heritage Registered properties are not formally protected. However, heritage values are recognized and may warrant future protection.
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603 Toronto St
1891. Queen Anne-style cottage. First owners were Margaret & William Garnham. House has been raised.
12
609 Toronto St
Second Empire style, Mansard roof. 2001 owners awarded Hallmark Heritage Society & Heritage BC Awards.
Heritage Designated properties are protected by municipal bylaw. Exterior cannot be altered or building demolished without City approval. Designated houses are eligible for rehabilitation grants from the Victoria Heritage Foundation.
13
608 Toronto St
1904. Arts & Crafts house was built on southeast corner of Naylor-McConnell farm for Martha Shepheard, McConnell granddaughter.
14
314 Huntington St
1890. Queen Anne, owner/ builder was Eli Beam. Fancy shingles, brackets, spindles, balusters. 310 John Fullerton, engineer on Hudson's Bay Company’s SS Beaver. 1974 owners awarded Hallmark Heritage Society Award and in 1976 a Canadian Housing Design Council.
15
310 Huntington St
1890. Queen Anne, by builder Eli Beam. Fancy shingles, brackets, spindles, balusters. First owner was John Fullerton, engineer on HBC’s SS Beaver. 1974 owners awarded Hallmark Heritage Society Award and in 1976 a Canadian Housing Design Council.
16
634 Avalon Rd
1890 Old Park Cottage. Queen Anne, 1980s roof addition on west side. Heritage Designated
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624 Avalon Rd
1904 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts by architect Samuel Maclure. First owners were Christina (Lorimer) & Fred Widdowson; Christina taught at South Park School.
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619 Avalon Rd
1891 Italianate, 2-storey angled front bay, three types of brackets. Original owners were Elizabeth (Lorimer) & Frederick Jackson.
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613 Avalon Rd
1890 Rose Thorp, Queen Anne cottage, coloured window glass, five types of brackets, widow’s walk on roof, Eastlake-style porch details, period colour scheme.
21
616 Avalon Rd
1907 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts, finials in apex of gables, oriel (hanging) bay windows, unusual multi-over-1 windows. Builder was Bert Knights.
22
614 Avalon Rd
1907. Withernsea, original owners Lydia & John Margison, grandparents of tenor Richard Margison. Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts, finials in apex of gables, oriel (hanging) bay windows, unusual multi-over-1 windows. Builder was Bert Knights.
23
610 Avalon Rd
1891 unusual Queen Anne, by architect John Teague. Moved here from Superior St in 1914; stuccoed over original drop siding, which was steamed to go around inset tower.
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303 Government St
1889-90, Cadzow Cottage. Queen Anne cottage. Note eyebrow dormer, spiral molding in gables, bay windows, glass & brackets. Owner/builder George Bishop was partner of Frederick Sherborne who also built 255 Government.
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255 Government St
1892, Arcadia. Victorian Queen Anne with a pedimented gable on hipped roof with many millwork details. Owner/builder was Frederick Sherborne. 1979 owner was awarded Heritage Hallmark Award for work on the house.
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270 Government St
1911, James Bay Inn, 2-storey former rooming house; oriel bay windows, recessed upper verandahs, metal faux-pantile roofs. Architect C. Elwood Watkins, owner/builders Parfitt Bros, prolific Victoria contractors. Originally part of property owned by Edward (Bishop) Cridge. Artist Emily Carr spent her last days here in 1945 when it was St. Mary’s Priory Guest House.
27
589 Toronto St
Built 1903 to north on Government, moved in 1910, then 1927 to here. Edwardian Classical Revival/Queen Anne, pedimented entrance, Corinthian columns, tower balanced by 2-storey bay.
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588 Toronto St
1892 Queen Anne cottage, steep hipped roof with front & side gables over large bays with cutaway corners & brackets, fish-scale shingles, scrollsawn cutouts in gable bargeboards.
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585 Toronto St
1912 Colonial Bungalow with Arts & Crafts details.
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582 Toronto St
1892 vernacular worker’s cottage with later porch hood.
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583 Toronto St
1909 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts. Stucco over original siding.
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577 Toronto St
1909 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts.
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574-76 Toronto St
1911 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts, owners Wm Lorimer & daughter Annie, built on Lorimers’ original 1870 farm property. Wm & Annie died a day apart in Nov 1918, victims of the Spanish flu.
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569 Toronto St
1911 Edwardian Foursquare, bellcast roof, original garage.
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548 Toronto St
1910 Colonial Bungalow of concrete brick, concrete block base & steps, slate roof, segmental arches over windows, sidelights & transom around original front door; newer dormer.
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526 Toronto St
1904 Colonial Bungalow; its mate 522 Toronto was demolished 2007.
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512 Simcoe St
1885, currently Bent Mast Restaurant, 1911 additions by architect Crawford Coates. Classical entrance porch, later stucco siding. 1975 owner was awarded Hallmark Society Award.
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141-159 Menzies St
1911, architect Thomas Hooper, built for Windsor Grocery; round corner tower, angled oriel bays.
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507 Simcoe St
1910, built as private school, Mansard roof; modern stucco over original siding.
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521 Simcoe St
1899 Italianate, architect Thomas Hooper. New windows, modified front porch after 1970s fire.
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146 Clarence St
1883; 1893 north part by architect Samuel Maclure. 1907-12 owner was Wm Wallace Gibson built, in back yard, first Canadian-built aeroplane to fly in western Canada: 8 Sept 1910, 200’ over Lansdowne field. 1977 owners received Hallmark Heritage Society Award.
42
161 South Turner St
1911 Arts & Crafts Edwardian Foursquare, designer/builder Alex McCrimmon for Elizabeth & George Sangster.
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154 South Turner St
1896 Queen Anne, inverted columns, weathervane, eyebrow dormer, (original siding covered by composite shingles), original carriage house at rear. Architect/builder/owner George C & Janet Mesher; Briggs family owned 1904-2004.
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155 South Turner St
1911 British Arts & Crafts Bungalow variation, heavy hipped roof; also by McCrimmon for Sangsters.
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141 South Turner
1914 California Bungalow, characteristic low-pitched, front-gabled roof, 1990s Japanese-style gateway.
46
133 South Turner St
1903 Eclectic Queen Anne, first owners Willemetta & Cowper Wm Newbury.
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132 South Turner St
1889 Queen Anne. Steep-pitch gabled dormer with sleeping porch, elaborate bargeboard, posts and brackets. 1990 owners received Hallmark Heritage Society Award.
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126 South Turner St
1906 Arts & Crafts cross-gabled with returns on ends of gables; original inset corner porch filled in, wrap-around verandah with gazebo added.
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122 South Turner St
1907 Arts & Crafts Bungalow, garage studio built 1997. Owners Elsie (Arthur) & William Lorimer, assistant city treasurer. His sisters lived at 619, 624 Avalon, 574-76 Toronto. Elsie taught at South Park School before marriage; daughter Jean taught there 16 years.
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117-19 South Turner St
1893 Italianate, 2-storey box bays. Built for Mary Walker, matron of BC Protestant Orphanage.
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116 South Turner St
1890, Silver Birch, Italianate. Note sandwich brackets, slender turned posts and spindles on hip roofed porch. Built for Andrew Schnoter, manager, Victoria & Vancouver cigar factories.
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106 South Turner St
1895 Italianate features full-width hipped roof with appearance of narrow balcony serves as porch roof & cover for angled bay. 102 pedimented porch & two 2-storey bays.
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102 South Turner St
1984 Italianate with typical eaves brackets, pedimented porch & two 2-storey bays.
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570 Niagara St
1908 Arts & Crafts Edwardian Foursquare, well-detailed, unusual windows. Owner/builder Herbert T. Knott.
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576 Niagara St
1905 Colonial Bungalow, brick & stone foundation, terracotta-coloured tuck pointing on granite, unusual arched window. Walter & “Peep” Luney’s 1st house. He was a bricklayer, then partner in Luney Brothers, major Victoria contractors.
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584 Niagara St
Circa 1904 Queen Anne cottage, simple brackets.
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606 Niagara St
1907 Æolia Cottage. British Arts & Crafts, , architect/builder George C Mesher for Rosabella & George Jennings Burnett, composer, organist & choir-master. Parlour held 486-pipe organ. Built-in garage added for family’s first motor car.
58
615 Niagara St
1929. Side-gabled stucco cottage with wide, open soffits and birdsmouth bargeboards. Porch with three arches.
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614 Niagara St
1909. Builder Robert Hetherington. Edwardian Arts & Crafts Bungalow. This style and size of house was popular in Victoria in the building boom before World War I. Bellcast hip-roofed with a central dormer, recessed porch and bracketed angled bay.
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East side 100-block Government St
Nine Arts & Crafts houses of various types in a row: No. 115 was built 1910 by architect Thomas Sedger. No. 107 is a 1907 Arts & Crafts Colonial Bungalow;
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119-21 Government St
Built 1908 to plans in Seattle magazine, note triple-gabled dormer; Drysdale.
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123-25, 127, 133, 143, 145 Government St
1905-07 Edwardian Vernacular Arts & Crafts, front-gabled roof with dormers, 1½ storeys, asymmetrical main, symmetrical upper, inset porch balanced by bay window. Builders Wm Y McCarter & Wm Drysdale.
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151 Government St
1909 Edwardian Foursquare, classical modillions (flat brackets), bellcast hipped roof; beaded, bull-nosed, double-bevelled siding.
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118 Government St
1911 Edwardian Foursquare variation, architect Thomas Hooper for widow Frances Mansell & family.
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124 Government St
1919 Craftsman Bungalow, bellcast gables, leaded lights.
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128 Government St
1936 English Revival cottage, architect Hugh Nalignt for Frances Mansell’s (No. 118 Government) daughter Alice & younger brothers after Frances died; note subtle curves of front catslide gable, steps & balustrade, 1930s windows.
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130-32 Government St
1905, Claremont, Edwardian Foursquare, note metal roof ridges; architect Samuel Maclure for Henry & Jessie Martin, sister of John & Cowper Newbury (133 S Turner). 1994 owners awarded Hallmark Heritage Society Award.
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140 Government St
1861, Woodlands, oldest surviving residence still in use in James Bay. Italianate Villa style, built of California redwood, note chimneys, variant on Palladian window, 1860s colour scheme. Architect Wright & Sanders for James Bisset, HBC. 1909 alterations by architect Samuel Maclure for John & Emma Newbury. 1992 owners received Hallmark Heritage Society Award.
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203-05 Government St
1929 Mission style, intended as a garage, but neighbours protested, so it was built as a house.
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207 Government St
1863, Richard Carr House, architect Wright & Sanders for Richard Carr, commission merchant. Italianate Villa style, note chimneys, finials, drops & urns, battened-wood verandah roof, 1860s colour scheme. It is now a museum celebrating youngest daughter, Emily Carr, renowned artist & writer; born here, she lived in 642-6 Simcoe, then with sister Alice in 218-20 St. Andrews. She died at 270 Government. The original Carr estate was 4 acres of Beckley Farm and extended roughly between Government, Marifield, Douglas & Simcoe Sts. In 1911 the estate was subdivided into 20 lots, five of these went to the Carr sisters.
Provincial & National Historic Site
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229 Government St
1905, Westview, Edwardian Classical, now stuccoed; note wall dormer, elegant verandah, granite foundation.
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614 Marifield Ave
1893, unusual house by architect J.C.M. Keith. Original siding covered with asphalt shingles.
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232 St Andrews St
1912 Arts & Crafts, long banks of double-hung multi-diamond-paned leaded lights over single panes; architect E.W. Arnold B. Stoten, builders Wm Dunford & Son.
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231 St Andrews St
1913, Tren-De-Hayes, Edith Carr House, Edwardian Foursquare, half-timbering & shingle siding. The house was built for eldest Carr sister Edith, sister Lizzie also lived here. By 1917 both moved back to the family home at 207 Government St.
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218-20 St Andrews St
Pre-1903, Alice Carr House & School, vernacular Edwardian cottage with additions. Alice Carr operated a private school here. Sister Emily had a studio here from 1919-22. After a heart attack in 1940, she moved in with Alice in a separate flat at the back at No. 22 & taught painting here. She died in 1945. Emily is buried along with the Carr family at Ross Bay Cemetery.
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204 St Andrews St
1927 English Revival cottage, architect Percy Fox; original roughcast stucco, tapered chimney pots, oval windows.
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634-36 Simcoe St
1911 Edwardian Foursquare, concrete block wall.
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638 Simcoe St
1923 1½-storey Craftsman Bungalow, builder Alex McCrimmon; heavy battered piers, deep verandah, trellis. Refinished.
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642-46 Simcoe St
1913, Hill House, House of All Sorts, British Arts & Crafts, symmetrical façade, main level now covered in stucco; arch. John Wilson for Emily Carr, as boarding house; she described her trials & tribulations in book of same name; Emily painted two First Nations-style eagles in attic that are protected by Provincial Heritage Designation.
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228 Douglas St
1907, architect Samuel Maclure. British Arts & Crafts Tudor Revival, large corbelled chimneys, stucco & half-timbering, recessed sleeping porch. Last remaining large mansion facing Beacon Hill Park.
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Beacon Hill Park
220 acres set aside in 1849 as “Park Reserve” by James Douglas. In 1953 Alice Carr had a stone bridge built at the south end of Goodacre Lake as a memorial to her sister Emily. Bridge is located a few steps inside the park, near the corner of Douglas and Avalon.
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508 Douglas St
1894, South Park School, architect Wm Ridgway Wilson, Queen Anne style based on red brick schools in London, England, with Dutch Baroque & Classical features. It is the oldest continuously functioning school west of Montreal.
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649 Superior St
1897 Arts & Crafts cottage, architect Samuel Maclure for Robert Porter whose family lived here until mid-1990s; symmetrical façade, pair of box bays either side of open porch, bellcast gable-on-hip roof.